NV4500 to NP203

I will start with the drive train. We had the NP203 rebuilt using a full master rebuild kit (every seal, gasket and roller bearing). While it was apart we had them install a Mile Maker 501 part time kit and a TH400 input shaft. I was told that being a reasonably handy monkey of the grease sub sect, I could rebuild the T case myself and for the next truck I will. I have the exploded diagrams, and enough patience to get the job done. Now on to the next challenge (hooking the NV4500 to the NP203). Every one who I asked who has done this did it in a different way. 

This is the rout I have chosen. The output of the NV4500 transmission is a TH00 with the Chev 4WD tail section.

Chevy tail section

The new NV4500 with the Chevy Tail Section

The bolt pattern for tail section was going to drilled into the fount surface of the NP203 however the T Case was out for rebuild when the Transmission arrived.  So in order to follow this plan we would have to disassemble the front of the 203 and drill the outer case.This method gave us about 2.6 inches of spline engagement.

  

                                                              

The NP203 front face

  Chevy tail section

The new plan (which dose not involve disassembly of the 203 internals) is to remove the old NP203 to NP435 adapter and machine it down to an adapter plate. The bolt pattern for tail section will be drilled into the adapter plate.we will loose about 1/2 inch of of spline engagement from the thickness of the plate. 

So this method gave us about 2.1 inches of spline engagement. 

NP203 to NP435 adapter

Every thing below the red line get cut off and what left on the casting gets milled down flush with the plate.

W150 pulled the Transmission and transfer case

 Pulled the tranny and T case as one.

 Now to find a NV4500 or a NV5600 Transmission to replace the NP435.

 I counted all the spines just to be certain, 23 on the input and outputs shafts.

 Rebuild time for the T case, the internal movements feel a bit off.

Rust repair of the air handler on the W150

This is the patch for the driver’s side. It was cut, formed and screwed into place in an effort to minimize any gaps.

 Quarter inch holes were drilled in between the screws and then plug welded to join the layers. The screws were removed and the holes welded closed.

 Passenger side patch.

Some of the duct was rusted thin and made for some burn through, the repair of witch made for a lot of ugly welds.

Playing catch up, during the winter Breaks, Bearings and gas tank on the W200

W200 Club cab

 My truck the W200 was up on the lift from February to April.

While it was up it got all new breaks (soft and hard lines, Calibers, Pads, shoes). 

 The front passenger side wheel bearing and inner axial were trashed as the last guy who had it apart did not assemble the bearing in the right order. The front axial is a Dana 44-HD just like on the M880. I got a used font right axial off of eBay, new bearings from the local parts store and was a victim of highway robbery at the local dodge dealer ship for an Axial Nut..

The new soft lines did not bolt up correctly, I fabricated an adapter. These lines are far easier to find and less expensive than NOS.

 Replaced the upper and lower ball joints.

 The W200 has an after market trailer break controller. I might keep if it cleans up nice. I don’t  like the idea of putting a T on the break line(as see in the photo) and running that line trough the fire wall and into the controller on the dash.

 I went through the differentials changed the gear oil and and by April thought I could at least drive it around the yard, my mistake.

   1. The power steering rubber line was leaking like a sieve.

   2. The break booster diaphragm had a large vacuum leak. So I thought way not make a clean sweep and replace both the Master cylinder and the Break Booster. The way all new breaks.   

The Gas tank fuel level sending unit for these tanks are crazy expensive. Since I am doing two of these 78s I bought one sending unit and I am using it as a guild to remake a generic unit to the same spec. 

Leafs + water = this all ways rusts out

Continuing cab rust repair and clean up.

 The bottom of the air handler rust out predicable as derby and water collects in the air duct. Seen here is the cut away passenger side view.  The thinned rusty metal is removed.

 A patched fabricated out of new sheet steel with a hammer and sandbag. The patch is ¾ of an inch bigger than the hole on the two overlapping sides. I cut a drain into the bottom of the patch to help remove any future derby. I will let you know is it works in another 35 years.

 

 To hold the patches in place I predrilled some 1/8 inch holes trough the over lapping parts and screwed them tight together.

 

 I then drilled some ¼ inch holes in the outer layer between the screws and plug welded in the patch.  The screws were then removed and the 1/8^th inch screw holes welded shut.

The driver side. 

 This sides patch placed on the out side to show overlap and predrilled screw holes.

 Patch in place.

 Screwed.

welded.

Ugly I know but that's what the fender will hide.

Drive train clean up

It's Time to clean up the drivetrain.

Every thing getting power washed, wire brushed, and taken apart.

 This is a 318 engine with a 4 speed manual NP435 Transmission and a NP203 full time 4 wheel drive Transfer case.
 For this truck we are thinking about adding a RV cam for the engine if it's in other wise good shape, replacing the NP435 with a NV4500 5 speed over drive Transmission and a rebuild kit for the NP203 Transfer case.

Pay Dirt at the Junk Yard, Oh and lots of other dirt and mud.

 After searching trough 4 Junk Yards we found a 1978 D150 with a good Bed and lots of extras.

 The W150 has a fixable bed, but the W200 would be very expensive to repair as it is mostly oxide.
 For $350 we got the bed, the rear frame, interior trim, plastic glove box liner, Cargo and interior lights, and an aux gas tank.

 We found these trim pieces on other trucks in the yard from the early 80s. They fit great!

The rear half of the frame is a real gold mine. Show here on top of the W150s frame. We are going to cut it up and sister rust rotten frame sections of both trucks. Some of the crossmembers and crossmember supports are direct bolt in replacements. 

 These end stops for the rear leaf springs were completely missing from the W200(rusted away). Score!!

 Repairing this dent is a lot cheaper then repairing all the rust on the W200 bed.

Man oh man do we have some rot on a few of our crossmembers, this is the best of the ones that need replacement.

On going Rust Repair

 As normal the air handler has holes rusted through where leafs collected.

 The outside patches are coming along just fine.

 The inside patches are taking a little more thought.

 I am fabricating a patch for the bottom of the air handler with a drain so moisture will not collect at the bottom.  

 The inner fender wells are hard to find and expensive, so time to get out the sand bag and hammer out some patches.

The cab is off the frame now time hammer out the dents and fix the half @$$ job the last guy did of replacing the floor pans.